Venetian cuisine ...

There are probably as many types of eateries in Venice as there are blogs on the web. Depending on the time of the day and what you fancy to eat, you can choose from a long list of ristorantes, trattorias, pizzerias, osterias, gelaterias, enotecas, wine bars, cafeterias, take-aways, Chinese restaurants, etc. etc. etc. And as we experienced ourselves, both the price as well as the quality of the food varies tremendously (although not necessarily proportionally or even in the same direction).

As we were close to Piazza San Marco on our second day in Venice, we decided to have a quick bite in one of the many ristorantes in the area. The travel-guides we were consulting were (as I mentioned in one of my previous posts) factually accurate but awfully noncommittal in relation to where to enjoy some tasty food in Venice. So we were 'forced' into one of the many indistinguishable eateries in San Marco. Not only were all ristorantes exactly the same, but their menus seemed photocopies of one single original menu (possibly patented by some clever business-man!). Even the prices were relatively similar: €15-€18 per head for this 'tourist menu' allegedly including some local Venetian specialities. So we went into the one eatery with thought looked more appealing - based on what? I would not be able to say - and we ordered not just one, but 'due Fish Tourist Menus, per favore!'

Big mistake! Huge mistake, I dare say. Primo plato: sort-of-ok spaghetti alle vongole (with clams, and not all of them empty). Secondo plato: a mixed salad (ok) and baccala e polenta? 'Cod with a tasty corn-type paste' the helpful waiter said. And since we had seen the same dish advertised in every single restaurant in San Marco, we decided to go for it.

Cod? What cod? Forgive me, but I am not sure if they have ever seen cod in Venice! There were two sorts of paste on our plate. The first (polenta), yellow-ish in colour, was dry and inedible. The second, I guess baccala, was even worse! A mix of a tiny wee piece of mashed-cod (or fish of some denomination) deeply buried in what I identified as mayo sauce (?!?!). Are they trying to poison tourists on purpose? What sort of organised crime organisation thought that getting rid of tourists (possibly one of the main sources of income in Venice) was a smart idea?

So, a few tips when travelling to Venice:

• If you can, avoid any meals at San Marco! All we could find were either expensive ristorantes or very touristic eateries offering mediocre food.
• Flee from 'tourist menus'. Really!
• Follow travel-guide recommendations (if you can find them). Walking around and eating anywhere is not a smart strategy in Venice.
• Or if you want a few ideas, drop me a line and I will mention a pair of trattorias we really enjoyed.

Good luck! And you find a nice place try rissotto or spaghetti nero di sepia. Delicious!